Published on March 28, 2026
Three scrawny cats sit outside the butchers. Our souk (market) guide Muhammad explains that they are there every day, diligently waiting for scraps, winding their way between shoppers’ feet. This vibrant scene captures the essence of Fes, Morocco’s historic second city, often overshadowed popular counterpart, Marrakech.
Fes is a place where the past intertwines seamlessly with daily life. As we meander through the narrow, winding streets of the ancient medina, we are greeted of artisans at work, the scent of spices wafting through the air, and the vibrant colors of textiles and pottery that adorn the stalls. The medina, a UNESCO World Heritage site, is known for being one of the largest car-free urban areas in the world, making it a labyrinthine wonderland waiting to be explored.
Unlike the bustling atmosphere of Marrakech, Fes offers a more subdued and authentic experience. The city’s history is palpable, with landmarks such as the Bou Inania Madrasa and the ancient Al Quaraouiyine University, recognized as one of the oldest continuously operating degree-granting universities in the world. Walking through Fes is akin to stepping back in time, where centuries-old traditions still govern the rhythms of life.
Visitors to Fes will find themselves captivated crafts that thrive here. Pottery, leatherwork, and intricate mosaics are just a few of the traditional skills passed down through generations. The famous tannery, Chouara, is a must-see, where workers can be seen dyeing leather in vibrant hues, surrounded that have remained unchanged for centuries. While some might find the smell overwhelming, it is an integral part of the Fes experience, revealing the city’s deep roots in craftsmanship.
Food lovers will also rejoice in Fes’s culinary offerings, which reflect the rich cultural blend of Berber, Arab, and Andalusian influences. The souks are filled with vendors selling fresh produce and spices, while local restaurants serve up delectable dishes like tagine and pastilla. A food tour through the medina not only satisfies the palate but also deepens the understanding of the city’s food heritage.
For those yearning for a glimpse into life in a Moroccan city that feels more intimate and less commercialized than Marrakech, Fes may just be the perfect destination. Here, tourists can connect with locals and experience the charm of a city that has persevered through time, tradition, and change. As the sun sets over the medina, casting a warm glow over the winding streets, it becomes clear that Fes is waiting to be discovered—one meandering alley at a time.
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