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Food critic visits 6 of America’s oldest restaurants to mark its 250th birthday

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Published on March 31, 2026

In a special celebration marking America’s culinary history, food critic Tom Sietsema has spent months exploring six of the nation’s oldest restaurants. This year, these establishments commemorate their centuries-long legacy, and Sietsema’s journey serves as a poignant reminder of the evolving American dining scene.

During a recent segment on NPR, host Ailsa Chang engaged Sietsema in a lively discussion about his project, which sought to uncover not only the unique recipes and dishes that have stood the test of time but also the stories behind these storied venues. Each restaurant, steeped in tradition, provides a glimpse into the nation’s past, showcasing how food has played an integral role in shaping cultural identity.

Sietsema began his explorations at the iconic White Horse Tavern in Newport, Rhode Island. Established in 1673, this establishment is known not just for its age but for its rich history as a gathering place for sailors and politicians alike. The tavern’s renowned clam chowder, laden with fresh local seafood, remains a highlight on the menu, reflecting the flavors that have long defined New England.

Next on his list was the Union Oyster House in Boston, which has been serving patrons since 1826. This lively spot is famous for its clam rolls and has welcomed a variety of notable figures over the years, including President John F. Kennedy. Sietsema noted that while the restaurant is steeped in history, it continues to embrace modern tastes dishes that resonate with today’s diners.

Moving south, Sietsema visited the historic City Tavern in Philadelphia, founded in 1773. This restaurant, which boasts a colonial ambiance, offers dishes inspired by 18th-century recipes, allowing guests to experience the flavors of the American Revolution. Its curated menu is not merely a homage to the past; it highlights the importance of storytelling through food, giving diners a taste of history with every bite.

As Sietsema continued his journey, he made a stop at the Old Ebbitt Grill in Washington, D.C., a restaurant that has been a favorite since its opening in 1856. Known for its oyster bar and bustling atmosphere, the Grill showcases how traditional dining can coexist with a vibrant, contemporary culture. Sietsema emphasized the Grill’s commitment to sourcing sustainable seafood, reflecting changing consumer preferences and environmental awareness.

The critic’s exploration also brought him to the historic Café du Monde in New Orleans, a coffee shop famous for its beignets and café au lait. Opened in 1862, this iconic spot captures the city’s rich French heritage and remains a must-visit for locals and tourists alike. Sietsema praised the café for its ability to remain unchanged while still feeling vital and relevant in a rapidly changing world.

Finally, Sietsema concluded his project with a visit to Louis’ Lunch in New Haven, Connecticut, widely credited as the birthplace of the hamburger. Established in 1895, this small eatery prides itself on serving meat patties between two slices of bread using the same 19th-century toaster. This commitment to preserving history is matched only ’s dedication to simplicity, offering a no-frills experience that highlights the essence of American comfort food.

Through these six establishments, Sietsema not only celebrates their enduring presence but also emphasizes the narrative of American dining as a living history. the past, modern cooks and chefs are not only preserving recipes but also evolving them to reflect contemporary tastes and values. As America observes the 250th anniversary of its independence, restaurants like these remind us that food is a cornerstone of culture—a blend of tradition, innovation, and community.

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